Portugal:
Lisbon, Sintra, Cascais, and Porto
After months of planning, I finally arrived in Lisbon, Portugal. The moment I stepped into the city, I was captivated by its colorful streets, historic plazas, and winding cobblestones. The sun was shining, the air felt fresh, and I was ready to start exploring this beautiful city.
Lisbon Arrival: Sun, Tram Rides, and Cobblestone Streets
The metro ride into the city center was effortless. I arrived at Monumento aos Restauradores, right near my hostel, Goodmorning Hostel Lisbon. This was one of the best hostels I’ve stayed at. It was cozy, friendly staff, and a great location. I dropped off my luggage, freshened up, and prepared to explore.
The first stop was a free walking tour with New Europe Sandeman’s Tours. The meeting point was at Praça Luís de Camões, which meant a steep uphill walk to get there, but the views were worth it. Lisbon greeted me with sunny skies and charming streets lined with tiled buildings, a stark contrast to the grey skies I’d imagined from forecasts. As I waited, it began pouring rain! Thankfully I had grabbed my umbrella.
The walking tour was packed with history:
- Lisbon is the second oldest capital in Europe after Rome.
- Chiado district once housed aristocrats, and Baxia (pronounced basha) is the downtown, modern area.
- The Portuguese were pioneering navigators, using the stars to chart unknown seas.
- Alfama, the oldest district, has winding streets perfect for strolling and discovering hidden views.
- Portuguese tiles often contain secret symbols, like the all-seeing eye of the Masons.
- Sardines are a huge part of local cuisine!
Along the tour, I met Ami from Binghamton—it turns out we had mutual connections through college and friends. We helped each other navigate small issues, like ATM withdrawals, which made the experience feel like a small adventure in itself.
After the tour, I wandered Alfama, exploring narrow streets, climbing hills, and pausing at cafés. The views over the rooftops of Lisbon were breathtaking. While at the viewpoint Miradouro da Graça, I got mini spinach and chicken pot pies and a strong espresso to powerthrough the jetlag and the rest of the day.
Later, I explored Castelo de S. Jorge just in time for sunset, then walked down to Praça da Figueira and Mercado de Baixa, a charming market that had olives, charcuterie, and local crafts.
Belem: Pastries and History
The next day, I caught tram #15 to Belem, enjoying the views along the way. Belem is full of historic monuments, gardens, and waterfront paths. My first stop was Pastéis de Belém, where I tried the iconic pastel de nata. Warm, sweet, and perfectly balanced between custard and flaky pastry, it was everything I hoped for. The line can get long, so I recommend going early.
I wandered through Jardim de Belém, rested in the cathedral for a quick 45-minute power nap, and admired the Monument to the Discoveries and Belem Tower. Walking along the water, I felt how much I love being near the sea—a recurring theme on this trip.
Sintra, Cascais, and Cabo da Roca: A Coastal Day Trip
One of the highlights of the trip was a day tour with Go2Lisbon to Sintra, Cascais, and Cabo da Roca. The weather was perfect: sunny skies and crisp air in the 50s–60s Fahrenheit.
In Sintra, I explored winding streets with colorful buildings, stopping at bakeries to try local pastries—the almond-y Travesseiro de Sintra and the cheese tart, quesada. Then we climbed to Pena Palace, its fairytale towers standing against a deep blue sky. Everywhere I turned, the views were incredible.
Next, we drove along the coast to Cascais, a charming beach town. I enjoyed sea bass with vegetables at John Bull Cascais, sat outside, and watched the waves.
Later, we stopped at Mar de Inferno, Devil’s Mouth, where the tide crashes fiercely against rocks. The ocean feels wild and untamed. The waves crash fiercely against the jagged rocks, sending sprays of foam high into the air. Depending on the tide, the water can cover the rocks completely, making it both awe-inspiring and a little intimidating. It’s a perfect spot to pause, take photos, and just watch the power of the Atlantic in action. The coastline here is rugged and dramatic, offering a stark contrast to the calm beaches you’ll see in nearby Cascais.
Finally, we visited Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point of continental Europe and was once thought to be the end of the world. The cliffs drop sharply into the Atlantic, offering stunning ocean views. Sunset is especially beautiful here as the sun sinks into the horizon.
Porto: Rivers, Cathedrals, and Wine
A quick 2.5 hour train ride from Lisbon brought me to Porto, greeted by rain but a vibrant city nonetheless. My first evening was spent exploring the cathedral near the hostel and walking along the Ribeira waterfront. Cathedral of the Souls is beautiful at night to see the illuminated stained glass.
For dinner, I went to Bar Do Falcão (unfortunately now out of business) and sat along the water. I tried Azeitão cheese, a delightfully gooey, soft sheep’s milk cheese.
The next morning, I wandered Porto’s historical streets, enjoying empty roads and perfect morning light. I walked over Ponte Luis I, up to Miradouro da Serra do Pilar, and explored Praça da Batalha.
A free walking tour starting near Clérigos Church introduced me to Porto’s history, Jewish heritage, and famous authors like J.K. Rowling, who wrote parts of Harry Potter inspired by the city. Additional information from the walking tour:
- Portuguese cuisine: Garlic, onion, and olive oil form the base of many dishes, similar to Italian cooking.
- Age of Exploration (15th century): Key historical period for Portugal.
- Religion of Portugal is 98% Catholic.
- Portuguese tiles were used to differentiate architectural styles.
- Architectural influences: Baroque and Rococo, with Italian architect Nasonee influencing Porto.
- Portuguese people often gather in the streets.
- Porto’s dual identity: Known as a “city that works” (harbor) and a hub for artists (e.g., JK Rowling’s bookstore, influence on Diagon Alley).
- Jewish history:
- 1492: Spanish Inquisition; 1/3 of the population was Jewish.
- Allowed usury and interest, which helped Jews thrive economically.
- Bubonic plague: Jews survived at higher rates due to cleanliness practices (e.g., washing hands before meals).
- Conversion, fleeing, or death during persecution.
- Portuguese Inquisition (1496): Lasted 300 years, with Crypto-Jews (secretly maintaining Jewish faith) surviving.
- Sephardic Jews: In 2015, Portugal and Spain offered citizenship to descendants.
- Douro Valley: Known for producing Port wine.
- Minimum wage: €585 per month.
- Historical trading with Brazil: Sugar, wood, gold, in India: Spices.
- Slave trade: Portugal played a significant role in starting the transatlantic slave trade.
- Colonial history:
- Macau: Gained independence in 1999.
- Angola & Mozambique: Gained independence in 1974.
- Brazil: Gained independence in 1822.
- Portuguese-English alliance: Strengthened Portugal’s economy.
- Camino de Santiago: Important religious pilgrimage.
- Political history:
- Salazar: Dictator who worsened the economy (lowered wages, raised taxes) but was seen as a “savior” to some.
- Blue pen movement: A strategy to numb the public to information.
- PIDE: Secret police used to control the population.
- Salazar’s Portugal: Stayed neutral in WWII to maintain colonial interests.
- Artists and culture: Lisbon was protected while Porto’s artists and new ideas were suppressed.
- UNESCO Heritage: Porto’s entire city is recognized.
- Social issues: Catcalling is illegal in Portugal.
- Charming street scene: Fado music playing from an old woman’s window, laundry drying, and a fresh breeze – a quintessential, picturesque moment of Portuguese life.
Enjoyed dinner at Taberna Mercadores. Seafood porridge, soft cheeses, and a glass of Douro wine made for a perfect meal.
Later, I joined a boat cruise along the Douro River, passing under six bridges and enjoying views of the UNESCO-listed shoreline. The cruise ended with a visit to Cruz Port Winery, sampling various ports and learning about the history of the wine.
Food and Experiences Not to Miss
- Pastel de Nata – custard tart at Pastéis de Belém
- Bacalhau – salted cod
- Arroz de Marisco / Cataplana de Marisco – seafood dishes
- Sardines – grilled or canned
- Bica – espresso
- Chouriço – Portuguese sausage
- Quesada & Travesseiro de Sintra – local pastries
Tips, Phrases, and Recommendations
- Key phrases: Obrigada (thank you), Sim (yes), Bon dia (good morning)
- Save metro/tram tickets to reuse where possible
- Start early for fewer crowds and golden-hour photography
- Must-see viewpoints: Castelo de S. Jorge, Miradouros, Cabo da Roca
- Recommended neighborhoods: Alfama, Bairo-Alto, Chiado, Baxia, Belem
- Notable restaurants: Time Out Market, Pastéis de Belém, Taberna Mercadores, Bar Do Falcão, John Bull Cascais
- Tours: Free walking tours in Lisbon & Porto, Go2Lisbon day trip
The Beauty of Solo Travel
This trip reminded me that travel isn’t just about monuments or meals—it’s about the moments in between. Power naps in quiet cathedrals, conversations with fellow travelers, people-watching at cafés, and spontaneous explorations all make Portugal unforgettable. Whether walking winding streets in Alfama, riding a tram to Belem, or sipping Port wine along the Douro, every moment felt alive, immersive, and utterly magical.