Sweden

Day 0: The Journey Begins

It all started with an evening flight from New York (EWR) to Stockholm (ARN). Settling into my window seat, I felt a mix of excitement and curiosity. I’d heard plenty about the Arctic’s extreme winters, and I was eager to see it for myself.

As usual on a redeye, I chose a window seat for easier sleep, but this time I was also hoping to catch a glimpse of the northern lights, just like last September en route to Norway (Link).

Day 1: Stockholm’s Historic Charm

We booked a long layover on SAS Airlines to give ourselves time to explore Stockholm.

When we arrived early the next morning, the crisp air outside was a sharp contrast to the warmth of the terminal. We needed to store our luggage for the day, so we found a facility in Terminal 5, Level 1. Instead of using the storage service, we opted for a large locker, which turned out to be cheaper. With our bags securely stowed, we easily hopped on the Arlanda Express—a high-speed train that whisked us into central Stockholm in just 18 minutes. Traveling at 180 km/hour, it felt like we were flying over the tracks, leaving the airport far behind. Clear signs in the terminal made getting to the city center effortless.

Stockholm greeted us with a blend of historic charm and modern energy. Our first stop was a café, where we enjoyed our first Swedish fika (Link). Afterward, I joined a free walking tour (Link) that began in Gamla Stan, the Old Town. As we wandered through the narrow streets and past colorful buildings, the guide’s enthusiasm was contagious. He pointed out runestones, cannonball corner guards, and the fire insurance plaques that adorned many buildings, adding layers of history to our experience.

We strolled through the German Quarter, where windows were painted over to avoid an old glass tax. Every detail caught my eye—from the raised bike lanes to the islands that make up the city and the rich history echoing from every corner.

For lunch, we grabbed some famous Swedish meatballs and later we found a spot at Skinnarviksberget, where the view over the city was simply breathtaking.

We went to Voss museum with the Viking replica ship. Hike to.

Sunset overlooking the river. Picked up dinner at CXX market.

As the day came to a close, I made my way back to the airport for my evening flight to Kiruna. The anticipation of what lay ahead kept my spirits high as the plane lifted off, heading north into the Arctic night. Once again, I chose a window seat, eagerly watching for a glimmer of the northern lights. The forecast was favorable, and my patience was rewarded with the first streak of green shooting across the sky. Soon after, the pilot dimmed the cabin lights and alerted passengers to the spectacle outside.

We landed at Kiruna’s small, single-terminal airport and took a bus into town. It was late, so we checked into our hotel using the self-service option and settled in for the night.

Day 2: Snowshoeing and Spa Relaxation in Kiruna

The next morning in Kiruna, I woke up to a winter wonderland. Stepping outside into the frigid air, my breath formed clouds as I set off for a snowshoeing hike along the Midnight Sun Trail. The 4.3 km round trip took me through snow-covered trees and the stillness of the Arctic tundra, with only the crunch of snow underfoot and the occasional gust of wind breaking the silence. Since it was cloudy with intermittent snow, we decided not to complete the full loop.

After the hike, I treated myself to a relaxing afternoon at Camp Ripan Spa, where I experienced a cherished aspect of Swedish culture. The spa was a blend of locals and tourists, and the experience began by changing into bathrobes and slippers. After splitting into men’s and women’s locker rooms, we showered and used the provided scrubs. Then, we walked through a water pathway lined with rocks and a wall of cascading water before emerging into the main spa area.

With a two-hour window, we moved at our own pace, enjoying steam rooms, coffee scrubs, foot baths, hot tubs, and an array of healthy snacks, water, and tea. Outside, there was a hot tub and a cold plunge pool. We dared each other to walk through the snow to the cold plunge before speed-walking back to the warmth of the hot tub.

We had planned a northern lights tour for the evening, but a snowstorm forced us to reschedule. Instead, we had dinner at one of the few restaurants in town (Empes Gaukök) and picked up some groceries (snacks, vegetables, sandwiches) for the next few days. We then spent a quiet night in at the hotel.

Day 3: Dogsledding Through the Arctic Wilderness

The next day was all about adventure. At Camp Ripan, we met our guides, Francesca and Vulna, who drove about an hour outside the city (tour name: Husky Tours Lapland Sit & Drive Combo/ Drive). After arriving at the facility, we were outfitted in warm snowsuites, boots, gloves, and more. They made sure we were fully prepared for the cold weather. I brought from home ski googles, a hat, my own gloves, and warm base layers of clothes.

They introduced us to the Alaska Huskies that would be our companions for the day. Each litter of these incredible dogs is given a themed name—ours included Disco, Techno, Kiara, and Kili. The dogs were full of energy, their excitement infectious as we prepared for our dogsledding tour. We did the half sitting half standing combo tour – this gave us both the opportunity to drive and enjoy the adventure.

With the sleds ready, we set off into the Arctic wilderness. The dogs pulled us effortlessly through the snow, their strength and speed a marvel to witness. As we glided through the snowy landscape, the cold air stinging my cheeks. This tour was a full experience! When we got back from the xxx hour ride, we helped to feed and then return the dogs to their pens. We then gathered near the fire for our Fika afternoon break of cinnamin buns and coffee or tea. Our last part of the tour was greeting the new litter of puppies and their momma! They jumped, licked, and cuddled us as we entered their pens.

The tour returned us to our hotel where we had a few hours to relax and prepare for our evening activity, the rescheduled Northern Lights tour! It was a little cloudy but forecasts were showing strong solar activity. Our guide assured us that we wouldn’t return until we had seen the auroras. The excitement was palpable as we headed out, bundled up in snowsuits provided by the tour company. We made four stops, each one bringing us closer to clear skies, and finally, the Northern Lights appeared—dancing across the sky in a display that was nothing short of magical. The swirling greens and purples of the auroras felt like nature’s own light show, a reward for the patience and enthusiasm of our small group of aurora hunters.

That evening, I was picked up by the Aurora River Camp Hotel, where I would spend the night in a cozy cabin. As I settled in, I reflected on the day’s adventures, feeling a deep sense of satisfaction and connection to this remote and beautiful part of the world.

Day 4: Snowmobiling and Sauna Serenity

The next afternoon, I found myself on a snowmobiling adventure that would take me deeper into the Arctic wilderness (Paradise Lapland Day Snowmobiling). Equipped with high-quality snowmobile gear, I felt ready to take on the Arctic’s harshest elements. The thrill of racing across the snow, with the icy wind in my face, was exhilarating. The landscape around me was vast and untouched, a true winter wonderland.

After the excitement of snowmobiling, I returned to the hotel for a much-needed sauna session. The warmth seeped into my bones, a welcome relief after the cold of the day. That night, I slept in a waterfront glass igloo at the Aurora River Camp. As I lay in bed, I gazed up at the clear Arctic sky, hoping for one last glimpse of the Northern Lights.

We were lucky to experience a solar storm and soon after sunset the sky exploded with color. On and off for the next few hours, the Northern Lights danced across the sky. It was difficult to sleep because the show was so electric and I didn’t want to miss a flare.

Day 5: The Ice Hotel and Reindeer Encounters

My final day in Kiruna was a day of exploration and cultural immersion. I started with a visit to the Ice Hotel, a marvel of art and architecture built entirely of ice and snow. Each room was a masterpiece, with intricate carvings and sculptures that reflected the creativity and skill of the artists who created them.

Next, I visited a reindeer farm in Jukkasjärvi, where I learned about the Sami culture and their deep connection to the land. The Nutti Sámi Siida provided a fascinating insight into the traditional ways of life in the Arctic. As I fed the reindeer, I felt a profound respect for the indigenous people who have lived in harmony with this harsh environment for generations.

That evening, I boarded my flight back to Stockholm, my heart full of the incredible experiences I had in Kiruna.

Heading Home

The final leg of my journey took me back to New York, leaving behind the Arctic tundra and the memories of an adventure that had far exceeded my expectations. As I flew home, I couldn’t help but feel a deep appreciation for the Arctic’s beauty, the warmth of the people I met, and the incredible experiences that had made this trip unforgettable.

The Arctic tundra may be cold, but the warmth of the people, the beauty of the landscape, and the thrill of the experiences made it a journey of a lifetime. If you’re looking for an adventure that takes you beyond the ordinary, Kiruna is waiting for you. Join me on this journey, and let’s search the world together—one unforgettable experience at a time.